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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.